Swimmingly Good Syros

Beneath Agios Giorgios  Photo©Nigel Summerley

And so to the centre of the Cyclades... not Delos although of course that is the sacred island sitting in the midst of this circular group of islands... but Syros, home of the wonderful Cycladic capital, Ermoupolis.

Over the past six years it has become something of a second home, and I never tire of returning. I could write far more about it than I'm doing here. But I'll concentrate on just two of its attractions: the perfect swimming spots – at Galissas on the west coast and in the city itself beneath the grand church of Agios Giorgios.

It was a little bit of heaven to be able to bathe in the not-too-cold water at both of them during a quick stay before heading back to Athens.

Beneath Agios Giorgios  Photo©Nigel Summerley

Bad Day, Good Day

Photo©Nigel Summerley

Some paths you just can't find – especially on an island such as Sikinos. My map informed me there was a remote beach at Kimisi Theotokou to the north-west of Episkopi, so on a cloudy day with the promise of later sunshine I set out to find it.

But the footpath – listed as an "unclear" branch off the coastal path – was completely elusive. The spot where it should have been (and for quite a way either side of it) was overgrown and impassable. 

Reluctantly I gave up and returned to the Kastro, the only benefit of the outing being to pick up some plastic packaging that had been discarded by the roadside.

This frustrating outing simply made the next day's walk even better – a return to Agios Giorgios (pictured above) which I had promised myself, this time taking the main road (yet again totally devoid of traffic, there and back).

This is the perfect swimming spot and I was reluctant to leave. But I had one more call to make before leaving Sikinos the next day.

I wanted to take in the ascent to the monastery from the other side to which I had climbed up to it a few days earlier; I knew I could – then drop down all the way to the Kastro.

The monastery was locked on my previous visit, with a notice saying entrance had to be arranged in advance. But, after the steep climb this time, I found the previously forbidding door wide open. I popped my head in and was welcomed by one of the nuns to have a look around. There was no sign of anyone else.

The monastery grounds were utterly peaceful and the views down from this high and windy point really were aerial. I stayed for a long time before thanking the nuns and heading for the steps that would take me back down to earth.

Photo©Nigel Summerley

Photo©Nigel Summerley

As I began the descent, I heard a nun lock the door again behind me... as if it had been open temporarily just for me.

Photo©Nigel Summerley