Showing posts with label teatro san carlo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label teatro san carlo. Show all posts

Friday, 9 February 2024

See Naples and Live... More – 10: Life and Death – On Stage and Off

 

   Photo©Nigel Summerley


















A major claim to fame of Naples' splendid opera house, the Teatro San Carlo, is that it burnt down in 1816 and was rebuilt even more splendidly within ten months. It is also reckoned to be the finest opera house in Italy... so let's say the world.

Initially I'd thought of just visiting the building to see its marvellous interior – which one can do. But when I found that Madama Butterfly was being staged, I booked tickets and had the view from a box seen here.

Like Puccini's opera, it was a bitter-sweet experience. Just as the lights were going down and the curtain was about to go up, I saw, as I was silencing my phone, a text from a musician friend telling me that my musical mentor and drumming legend, John Marshall, had just died.

Although the news was not totally unexpected, it was a tearful moment and I felt a kind of guilt for being here in this dream setting. But in an instant I could hear John's voice telling me: "Just enjoy the music – it's the best thing there is."

And it was. 

An incredibly moving night that brought the curtain down on yet another life-packed visit to Napoli...

   Photo©Nigel Summerley




Thursday, 26 October 2023

See Naples and Live... More – 1: The Bonelli Collection

My series of blogs See Naples and Live (13 October 2021 to 19 February 2022) attracted a great many readers, so here is the first in a new series dedicated once more to the most amazing of cities...

Gaetano Bonelli
















Naples is the outsider, the underdog, defiant in the face of adversity... and so too is one of its greatest champions, Gaetano Bonelli.

For four decades Bonelli has been collecting anything and everything that documents the history of this great city, his city.


His treasure trove – the Bonelli Collection – is tucked away in rooms off the quiet Piazzetta San Gennaro a Materdei, to the north of the historic centre.


But though he has mouthwatering items on display to delight visitors, the bulk of his accumulated documents, posters, memorabilia and ephemera are shut away in files and boxes. Bonelli has neither the space nor the funding to show all he has gathered.


Don't let that put you off visiting. Even the relatively small selection of items on display is well worth seeing... and some of them on their own may keep you entranced for far longer than you might imagine.


So why is there no sizeable Bonelli Museum to exhibit all of the Neapolitana that he has collected over the past 40 years? Because, he says, the establishment doesn't want to know. The implication is that he is seen as an amateur rather than an academic, and that he has been indiscriminate in his collecting – with Bonelli, the "lowbrow" sits comfortably alongside the "highbrow".


"People have donated pieces to me... sometimes I ask local associations for things. This material is coming from the people – that's why the big institutions don't want to know," he says. He has historic posters of yesteryear from the Teatro San Carlo and thought the legendary opera house might want to display them, but apparently he got nowhere.
































How did Bonelli's remarkable journey start? 


"Stamp collecting," he says with a boyish smile. It was a common childhood hobby for his generation, but while most lost interest, he found that the collecting bug grew into a passion.


The southern Italian earthquake of 1980 (which caused much death and destruction in and around Naples) had a profound effect on the young Bonelli. 


"I decided in my own little way to do something for the city," he says.


"As a kid I had fallen in love with Napoli. When I started collecting things, I became like a tourist in my own city. But the things I discovered could not be just for me."


His desire to share his discoveries was as strong as his commitment to collecting.


"I've suffered a lot in doing this," he says, without a hint of self-pity. "But I am devoted to history and motivated by love."

Bonelli was an honoured guest at the recent 48th anniversary gala of the National Italian American Foundation (NIAF) in Washington, where a selection of his exhibits documenting Italian emigration from the south of the country were on display.


Like the prophet without honour in his own country, Bonelli may have more renown internationally than he does in Naples. 


But one day, if there is any justice, that will change.


The Bonelli Collection, Fondazione Casa dello Scugnizzo Onlus, 

3 Piazzetta San Gennaro a Materdei.

Visits by reservation; 340 4844132; g.bonelli72@gmail.com.

Gaetano Bonelli and Nigel Summerley