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| Photo©Nigel Summerley |
Naples, of course, is a crazy place. Crazy about life, crazy about death... and crazy about saints. Such as Maradona, almost the city's ultimate holy icon.
The top spot, though, goes to San Gennaro, patron and protector of Naples, and early Christian martyr beheaded by the Romans just outside the city, at Pozzuoli (of which more in an upcoming blog).
His head and his bones are kept in the Cathedral and so, famously/notoriously/controversially, is his blood (this blog, See Naples and Live – 20: Bones and Blood, 26 December 2021).
Collected when his head was being removed, the blood was kept by one of the faithful. And back in the Middle Ages when the head and body were reunited, it was found, allegedly, that the dried blood miraculously liquefied. At least that's the story.
And that miracle continues to take place on the holiest of days in Naples, when the glass phial containing the blood is brought out and shaken and, hey presto... red liquid blood.
19 September is the anniversary of San Gennaro's death and the day when Naples goes extra-crazy.
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| Photo©Nigel Summerley |
Local dignitaries and a carabinieri marching band lead the parade to the Cathedral with any fascinated bystander (such as me) welcomed to join in. Those not marching, were lining the streets to watch us pass or already massing in front of the steps leading up to the great church.
A sea of people and smartphones waited to witness the magical moment when the blood was brought forth. If we learned anything, it was perhaps that miracles require a lot of patience.
We stood and stood, watching the big screen conveying the service going on inside the Cathedral. And go on it certainly did...
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| Photo©Nigel Summerley |
Eventually the phial was carried out and a white handkerchief was seen being waved to signify that, yes, the blood was liquid once again.
Phew! That meant Naples could rest reasonably easily for the coming year... since the rare occasions when the blood has failed to liquefy have been seen as an extremely ill omen.
And with Gennaro's blood flowing once more, we were all able to concentrate on carving a way through the throng and return to the vital business of finding somewhere to eat and drink.
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| Photo©Nigel Summerley |
It wasn't until the following day that I was able to get up close to see the blood of San Gennaro for myself. That's when it was open house at the Cathedral for the liquefication-curious. I have to say the blood was flowing most impressively.
The question remains of what exactly is in that phial. But because it's sacred blood, it's off limits to any scientists who might want to prove that this is nothing more than a very smart conjuring trick.
In Naples, belief and hope and superstition will always give science a good beating...
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