See Naples and Live... More – 4: Raiders of the Lost Sleep

Image by djedj@Pixabay

The feast of San Gennaro (see previous blog) is a huge religious festival in Naples and, as with many similar events, it's an excuse for forgetting about work and everyday cares and concentrating on making merry.

On such a major public holiday people relax and let down their guard... hence the reason, it turned out, that those of us bedding down in the central Forcella district after the festivities were woken around 3am by what sounded like an invading army and airforce.

And that's pretty much what it was. A combined troupe of 300 or so carabinieri and police had chosen the early hours of the morning after the celebratory night before to carry out a raid on organised crime targets.

The helicopter that woke me sounded as if it were outside the front windows of my apartment. In reality, it was hovering somewhere just above the building and occasionally doing circuits of the area – for a long time. The ongoing racket was punctuated by shouting and loud bangs that sounded like doors being smashed in.

Next morning's news confirmed that that was exactly what was happening, and the cops had amassed quite a haul of guns and drugs and suspect individuals.

All next day there was a heavy (and preening) police presence on street corners around the centre. They were obviously very pleased with themselves and what had been a good night's work for them – even if it had been a terrible night's sleep for the rest of us.

See Naples and Live... More – 3: Saint's Alive

Photo©Nigel Summerley

Naples, of course, is a crazy place. Crazy about life, crazy about death... and crazy about saints. Such as Maradona, almost the city's ultimate holy icon.

The top spot, though, goes to San Gennaro, patron and protector of Naples, and early Christian martyr beheaded by the Romans just outside the city, at Pozzuoli (of which more in an upcoming blog).

His head and his bones are kept in the Cathedral and so, famously/notoriously/controversially, is his blood (this blog, See Naples and Live – 20: Bones and Blood, 26 December 2021).

Collected when his head was being removed, the blood was kept by one of the faithful. And back in the Middle Ages when the head and body were reunited, it was found, allegedly, that the dried blood miraculously liquefied. At least that's the story.

And that miracle continues to take place on the holiest of days in Naples, when the glass phial containing the blood is brought out and shaken and, hey presto... red liquid blood.

19 September is the anniversary of San Gennaro's death and the day when Naples goes extra-crazy.

Photo©Nigel Summerley

Local dignitaries and a carabinieri marching band lead the parade to the Cathedral with any fascinated bystander (such as me) welcomed to join in. Those not marching, were lining the streets to watch us pass or already massing in front of the steps leading up to the great church.

A sea of people and smartphones waited to witness the magical moment when the blood was brought forth. If we learned anything, it was perhaps that miracles require a lot of patience.

We stood and stood, watching the big screen conveying the service going on inside the Cathedral. And go on it certainly did...

Photo©Nigel Summerley

Eventually the phial was carried out and a white handkerchief was seen being waved to signify that, yes, the blood was liquid once again.

Phew! That meant Naples could rest reasonably easily for the coming year... since the rare occasions when the blood has failed to liquefy have been seen as an extremely ill omen.

And with Gennaro's blood flowing once more, we were all able to concentrate on carving a way through the throng and return to the vital business of finding somewhere to eat and drink.

Photo©Nigel Summerley

It wasn't until the following day that I was able to get up close to see the blood of San Gennaro for myself. That's when it was open house at the Cathedral for the liquefication-curious. I have to say the blood was flowing most impressively.

The question remains of what exactly is in that phial. But because it's sacred blood, it's off limits to any scientists who might want to prove that this is nothing more than a very smart conjuring trick.

In Naples, belief and hope and superstition will always give science a good beating...

See Naples And Live... More – 2: Snaking All Over

The next item in my new series on Naples – about the miracle of San Gennaro's blood – has been delayed slightly by Marius Kociejowski.

Mr Kociejowski has written such a brilliant book on the city – The Serpent Coiled In Naples – that reading it is taking up any spare time that I get.

He covers many of the aspects of Napoli that I did in my first series, See Naples And Live (13 October 2021 to 19 February 2022), but in huge and poetic depth.

The way that he ranges from one century to another, from one character to another, and so often from a lie to the truth and back again, is madly chaotic and perfectly in tune with the place.

I can't recommend it highly enough – it's one of those books that you really don't want to end.

See Naples and Live – 22: Underground Religion

San Gennaro Catacombs ©Nigel Summerley

I've already touched on some of the history of the unfortunate San Gennaro [see this blog 26 December 2021, See Naples and Live – 20: Bones and Blood] who had his head removed by the Romans in Pozzuoli near Naples in the 4th century because he was a fervent Christian.

His body and his head – and allegedly his blood – all travelled around quite a bit. But in the 5th century most of his remains were brought to Naples and buried in the catacombs that today still bear his name.

Four centuries later those remains were stolen and removed to the town of Benevento which also had a claim on the poor man.

In 1497 the saint's bones were finally returned to Naples – where some of them can still be seen in the Cathedral.

But more atmospheric by far are those Catacombs of San Gennaro – in the Sanita district – where not only he but many of the early Christians were entombed while they waited for their expected resurrection.

The Catacombs are a long way out from the centre of the city and not brilliantly signposted – in fact, not really signposted at all. But don't be put off. The locals are used to confused visitors wandering about and they happily dispense directions, often without being asked. Sometimes they just smile and point...

The remains of Gennaro are no longer here, of course, but you can see the tomb where he was once laid – and the many niches in which his fellow Christians were sealed up – and marvel at this underground cemetery whose structure also served as an atmospheric church.

Some of the intensity of the lives of these followers of Jesus can be picked up from exploring this subterranean sepulchre – but it is nothing to the eerie nature of the Catacombs of San Gaudioso, also in Sanita and also to be featured shortly in this blog.

San Gennaro Catacombs ©Nigel Summerley