Photo©Nigel Summerley |
Like many of the Cyclades, Folegandros has a network of well-marked footpaths. The first that I tried took me east from the Chora to the four beaches spread around Vathy Bay: Fira, Angali, Galyfos and Agios Nikolaos.
The last of those is designated as clothes-optional. But as far as I was concerned, they all were, since there was not a sign of another person on any of them. My only meeting was with the goats pictured above, and they seemed nonplussed at the presence of a visitor.
I apologised for disturbing them... and they left me in peace to sit by the sea.
The path – tough at times – eventually took me northward to Ano Meria and then I hit the road east back to the Chora.
The much talked of restaurant did open in the evening and I went there with quite an appetite.
Could I see the menu? No. There wasn't one.
"We tell you what you can have," explained the waiter kindly.
And what I could have was beef soup.
I explained I was vegetarian.
"We can do vegetables," shouted the man in the kitchen, "in beef stock."
Er, no, that wasn't going to work.
"We'll have vegetable soup tomorrow."
I said I'd think about it and headed for the mini-market before it closed.
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